---butchering knives - 6-8" curved or straight blade bone knife - 6" skinning knife with an upswept point -8-10" breaker
---hunting knives -drop point or clip point knife with a 4-7" blade(buck,cold steel,alaska knives and case) -fish and bird knife with 2-3" blade 2 fillet knive ,1 5 in. and 1 10 inch(
---combat knife -6-10" blade and as light as possible while remaining durable(cold steel,ka bar)
If you've got a good understanding of what each knife would be doing (in other words, if you'd need it to take an edge vs hold an edge) then you could figure out what kind of steel is best for that.
May the road gangs never meet you. May the wind be fallout-free. May the sun shine through the ashes, hot rain not fall on thee. And until we meet again, may no one hold your flesh in the palm of their hand.
Joined: Nov 2010 Gender: Male Posts: 555 Location: Australia Karma: 24
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #3 on Feb 2, 2011, 8:52am »
In most cases, as long as you don't buy a cheap version, the steel will be fine. This may mean buying a well known brand for a relatively high price but ultimately, you're getting what you pay for.
Most of the 'Rambo' type survival knives are typically cheap, low grade steel made to con money out of people who think a Rambo knife is cool. Even the brand name ones with good quality steel are more for "show & tell" than real use. Irrespective of what type knife you buy, the brand name types (including any of the brands you've mentioned) are usually the best quality and with care should last decades and longer.
For example, I have an Austrian Combat Knife that I bought in the 1980s and then used when I was in the Army. I still have it and it's just as good now as when I first got it, it was made by Glock (who also supplied entrenching tools to the Austrian Army)
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #4 on Apr 10, 2011, 4:12pm »
love blades there quiet easy to clean and you can make things go splat! there is however disadvantages say in a zombie apocalypse you could accidentally stab your self hmm..? worry not what you want is something that's not extremely shiny and is a beacon to millions you'll get seen and possibly killed id also go for something with a sheath so you wont stab yourself accidentally as I mentioned earlier id have to go for a combat knife for killing small groups quietly or a katana you can sharpen these and make them cut swathes through great numbers I have tried it at my club though haven't bought one myself if I were anyone though in a post apocalyptic world id always have a trusty penkife
Joined: May 2011 Gender: Male Posts: 19 Location: The Land of Oz Karma: 2
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #5 on Jun 2, 2011, 3:27pm »
Mate, anything by COLD STEEL is awesome. My best friend bought my wife and I seperate presents for our wedding and the present he got me was the Recon Tanto from Cold Steel. It's hands down the best knife i've ever seen. Good solid knives and machetes are all that you will need and to be honest I don't relly pay much attention to the type of steel unless it's obviously shitty metal. Hi carbon is the best apparently. However, with good knives you need to learn how to sharpen them properly and I make it something of a rule not to make them quite sharp enough to shave because the edge wears down quicker in my experience.
At the turn of the 20th century the human race had a chance to really make something of itself. There were two paths our ancestors could have taken and unfortunately for us they took the path most traveled. We're a doomed race and we need something to happen so we can have a fresh start.
The way of life that made my country famous is being wiped out by multiculturalism.
Joined: Jun 2011 Gender: Male Posts: 48 Location: The wasteland of Old New York. Karma: 0
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #6 on Jun 17, 2011, 11:05pm »
in a post apocalyptic world i (currently employed as a chef) know for a fact a chef's knife set will be a perfect tool in a PA setting. Any chef worth his weight knows how to care for and sharpen his blades; the precision to cut away unwanted (rotting/damaged) material from food sources might prove as useful as concerning yourself with a combat blade.
As Rick said above, you won't want blades to be too sharp because of how it ages them, but sharp enough to cut clean is very important.
as for brands of chef blades, i can not give any real suggestions; i have personally used many brands and found them all to be about equal. most price differences in retail chef's blades are based on warranties and brand name popularity.
Joined: Aug 2010 Gender: Male Posts: 141 Location: Phoenix, AZ Karma: 3
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #8 on Jun 18, 2011, 3:52am »
Taken from Post referenced at the bottom.
10A also refered to as AUS-10. 60
17-7 PH Good corrosion resistance, excellent for water sports applications. This alloy is a chromium-nickel-aluminum precipitation hardening stainless steel with good edge retention. Great corrosion resistance generally means a high chromium content, and this means knives made with this steel will be a little harder to sharpen than blades with a lower chromium content. 54-56
154 CM Originally designed for jet engine fan blades, it is the precursor to the Japanese made ATS-34. In recent years, this steel has made a resurgence in the knife industry, offering good blade toughness, edge holding capability and corrosion resistance. Fairly easy to resharpen. 58-62
4116 Krupp. A fine grained stainless steel from Germany. Offers high degree of corrosion resistance and decent degrees of strength and edge retention. Other alloy elements contribute to a finer sharper edge.
420 A hard, strong blade steel. This stainless steel is commonly used in knife blades, and offers good corrosion resistance at a low cost. Decent edge holding capabilities and fairly easy to resharpen, this steel is a good balance of the most desirable traits for knife steel. 49-53
420 HC A high carbon version of 420 steel, this steel combines the excellent wear resistance of high carbon alloys with the corrosion resistance of chromium stainless steels. The high carbon content makes this steel harder to resharpen, but the tradeoff is better edge holding properties. 58
440 A A high carbon stainless steel, used in many production knives. A good balance of edge retention, easy resharpening and corrosion resistance. 55-57
440 C A high chromium stainless steel which exibits an excellent balance of hardness and corrosion resistance. This steel takes a nice edge, and is fairly easy to sharpen even for a novice. 58-60
1055 1055 Carbon steel is right on the border between a medium and high carbon steel. The carbon content and the lean alloy make this shallow hardening steel with a hardness between RC 60-64 depending on the exact carbon content. This steel is well suited where strength and impact resistance is valued.
1070-1075 Can offer an extremely hard and excessivley sharp edge. Used in the cores of armor piercing bullets due to hardness. A popular steel for hawks, hatchets, and choppers of all shapes and sizes. 60-65
1080
1095 This is a plain carbon steel, which means it has low resistance to corrosion, and low to medium edge retention. The benefit of this steel is it's easy to sharpen, will take an extremely sharp edge and is generally available at a low cost. 56-58
5150 A medium carbon, low alloy steel that hardens well. This steel is ideally suited to blades with a very thick cross-section such as tomahawks and axes. Extremely tough and impact resistant, this steel is most often used on blades which are hafted and/or thrown. 55-60
ATS-34 A very high carbon, chromium stainless steel with additional amounts of molybdenum. This steel has good edge holding properties and high corossion resistance, but is more difficult to resharpen than lower chromium steels. 60-61
AUS 6A A medium to high carbon stainless steel, this steel holds a good edge and is particularly well suited for heavy, long blades that are subjected to a lot of stress while chopping and hacking. It has good edge retention, and is fairly easy to resharpen with decent corrosion resistance. 55-57
AUS 8 A Japanese stainless steel, with surperb toughness and good edge holding capabilities. This steel is fairly easy to sharpen and generally low cost with great corrosion resistance. 57-58
BG-42 A high quality, bearing grade alloy with significantly increased amounts of carbon and molybdenum content plus vanadium for improved edge retention and strength. Easy to sharpen, with decent corrosion resistance. 61-62
Carbon V® This low alloy, cutlery grade steel is superior to most other steels due to its chemistry. Decent corossion resistance with superior edge retention make this a premium steel for knife blades. This steel is exceptionally tough, and therefore harder to sharpen than most stainless steels. 59
CPM S30V® This American made and engineered steel was created especially for the knife industry. It is a powder made steel with uniform structure and great corrosion resistance. Excellent edge retention and first rate toughness make this steel one of the best all-around knife steels, striking a balance between corrosion resistance, edge retention and sharpenability. 58-60
D2 This air hardened tool steel is sometimes called a "semi-stainless" steel, because it contains 12% chromium. It offers decent corrosion resistance with exceptional edge retention. It is harder to sharpen than most, but can be finished to a high-polish shine. 59-60
Damascus This steel is made from dissimilar steels folded or fused together with heat. It is often acid etched, which brings out the different steels in a striped pattern. Excellent toughness and edge holding capabilities make it a great blade, but the cost of production is high. Damascus is most often used in special applications like decorative blades. Layers vary from 53-62
INFI INFI is a proprietary steel and heat-treat protocol developed by Busse Combat Knife Co. It is only available through Busse Combat. INFI offers high lateral strength, high shock resistance and overall blade toughness. Unparalleled edge holding under high impact with long lasting edge retention. It can be easily sharpened by hand and has demonstrated very high levels of stain resistance in many different climates. Expen$ive. 58-60
M2 This high-speed, tool grade steel is used primarily in cutting tools in industrial applications. This is metal used to cut metal. With excellent strength, enduring toughness and tremendous wear resistance, this is some of the toughest steel used to make knife blades. The tradeoff for all this toughness is that this steel is hard to sharpen, and it is highly susceptable to corrosion. All blades made from this steel will have a corrosion resistant coating applied, to give good corrosion resistance with such a tough steel. 62
N690 An Austrian made stainless steel, it is comparable to 440C in performance. It offers good edge holding qualities with excellent corrosion resistance, and fairly easy sharpening. 58-60
SK-5 High Carbon Sk-5 is the equivalent of American 1080. 60-65
S30V This steel contains carbon along with high amounts of chromium, molybdenum and vanadium. This steel is double tempered for hardness and edge retention.It has excellent corrosion resistance, but is slightly more difficult to sharpen. 59-61
Sandvik 12C27 This stainless steel is made in Sweden. It is generally known as a premium steel for knife blades, offering a good balance of corrosion resistance, sharpenability and edge retention. 57-59
San Mai III San Mai means "three layers". It is a term used when talking about traditional Japanese swords and daggers. The laminated construction is important because it allows the blade maker to combine different grades of steel in a single blade. A high carbon center layer provides the strength and edge holding qualities, while the outer layers are lower carbon steels, providing flexibility. Center layer= 59 Outer layers= 57
SR101-- (a variation of 52100) is the combination of an extremely fine-grained tool steel and a proprietary multi-step tempering protocol. This process includes the incorporation of a deep cryogenic treatment for grain refinement (and in some knives) differential tempering which adds greatly to the overall toughness and strength.
Shiro 2 WIP
VG-1 Strong Edge Retention, Shock and Stain Resistance and Blade Strength. 56-58
VG-10 VG-10 is a high carbon stainless steel, similar to 154CM with less molybdenum and the addition of cobalt and a small amount of vanadium. Offers good blade toughness, edge holding capability and corrosion resistance. Fairly easy to resharpen. 58-62
X-15 T.N Developed for the aircraft industry for jet ball bearings, and used in the medical industry for scalpels, this steel resists rust in the worst of conditions while maintaining ample edge retention. Offering an easy to maintain edge and excellent corrosion resistance, this steel is ideal in knives used for watersports. 56-58
X 46 CrMo 13 Euro Term for 420. Popular with Popular Kitchen Cutlery Companies. RC 54
X 55 CrMo 14 Euro Term for 440A. Popular with Popular Kitchen Cutlery Companies. RC 56
X 90 CrMo 18 Euro Term for 440B. Popular with Popular Kitchen Cutlery Companies. RC 58
X 105 CrMo 17 Euro Term for 440C. Popular with Popular Kitchen Cutlery Companies. RC 59
Joined: Nov 2010 Gender: Male Posts: 490 Location: Arizona Karma: 25
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #9 on Jun 18, 2011, 10:26am »
Duane - my dad is a blacksmith and that's the most comprehensive list of steels I've seen in some time. One note about true Damascus however - it's made by combining tool steel with mild steel, not just two dissimiliar metals Calling flattened, forged cable damascus is incorrect. You have to anneal the tool steel, forge weld the two pieces together, then fold them, forge weld, repeat. It's quite a process, but once it's tempered, you have a sharp, yet flexible blade. My father made Damascus, and it's quite a process.
Personally, I prefer older Kabars - like WWII era. The steel was a godd, high carbon steel that you can still sharpen on a rock, but that isn't brittle. There are higher tech steels out there, but you can't beat an old Kabar MkI or MkII IMO.
tistine is a troll. No matter what you say, he will find a way to ridicule it. I encourage everyone to simply boycott him. Witness the responses I got from him. He's not worth the effort.
Joined: Aug 2010 Gender: Male Posts: 141 Location: Phoenix, AZ Karma: 3
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #10 on Jun 18, 2011, 12:31pm »
If you want to see some great Knife reviews, check out NutNFancy on Youtube. He always discusses the steel and grind and things that most people don't cover.
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #11 on Jun 18, 2011, 11:03pm »
Having investigated a few stabbing in my time there is one thing that nobody seem to think about. It's fairly common for the stabber to get their hands cut if they don't have good guard or hilt or ricarsso or whatever it's called. Stabbing a person can be hard work. The stabee tends to move around and the Human body can be surprisngly tough. Seem fairly common for the hand to slide off of the handle and onto the blade as it gets slick with blood.
So while I don't know much about the types of steel if you are going to have a blade for self-defense think about that.
Joined: Nov 2010 Gender: Male Posts: 490 Location: Arizona Karma: 25
Re: blades for the post apacalypse « Reply #12 on Jun 19, 2011, 12:41am »
I respect his opinion of the knife, but I'm going to have to write him. He mispronounced Camillius a number of times, Olean, and Kabar. I grew up 12 miles from Camillus, so I know. It's a mistake anyone could make, so I just need to send him a friendly message. Just so y'all know:
tistine is a troll. No matter what you say, he will find a way to ridicule it. I encourage everyone to simply boycott him. Witness the responses I got from him. He's not worth the effort.
Having investigated a few stabbing in my time there is one thing that nobody seem to think about. It's fairly common for the stabber to get their hands cut if they don't have good guard or hilt or ricarsso or whatever it's called. Stabbing a person can be hard work. The stabee tends to move around and the Human body can be surprisngly tough. Seem fairly common for the hand to slide off of the handle and onto the blade as it gets slick with blood.
So while I don't know much about the types of steel if you are going to have a blade for self-defense think about that.
+1 to this. It's an incredibly important point to note about any knife you intend to fight with - hand guards work both ways!
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